Acids of any kind are known to "bleach" colored grout. Try this test. Wet the tiles and the grout; if the grout darkens and looks better wet, is less blotchy and you are satisfied with the look, use a "stone enhancing top sealer" to coat the grout joints only. You will need a small applicator and many varieties are sold in tile stores. The other option is to "paint the grout" a color of your choice with paint on grout color products designed for the job of changing existing grout colors. You can try the sealer first and paint the joints later if you are not satisfied. Removing all the grout with an electric grout removing tool is the only other option. They are available at a variety of retailers. some are called "Multimaster". Fein and Dremel, are two brands. Armen Tavy

If you could see the trowel marks on the "Fiberock" the odds are you did not use enough scraping pressure while "keying In" the mortar. You MUST hear a scraping sound while using as much pressure to "drag" the flat edge of a trowel holding it at no less than a 75 degree angle to any substrate. I ALWAYS let the "Key In" skim coating dry to the touch before proceeding with any installation. It's the best insurance, and I doubt that I would use" Kilz" instead. We are seeing more and more failures over "Cementitious Boards" that are not prepped properly in case there are bond breakers present. Asking you to use "Kilz" means that they are telling you that a "bond breaker" was present. It could have been  "Theirs" or "Yours". Better advice in this case would be to "Key In" (skim coat) with a "Liquid Latex Modified Mortar" and let it dry for several hours or overnight. "Key In" (skim coat) once more with a modified setting mortar, just before you spread the same mortar for tile installation in each work section. This "skim coating" must stay "wet" as you spread installation mortar and don't spread more than you can tile in + - 30 minutes. The hotter the day the shorter the open time, the cooler the day the longer the open time. Setting mortar must be spread in neat "corn rows" left to right and tiles "pressed in" and adjusted forward and then back to make full contact. "Beating" tiles is always recommended.  Armen Tavy

This forum is not photo friendly but "www.thetiledoctor/forum.com is. Post your question and photo there for all to see. Armen Tavy

Join the club. I don’t ever use them (twice was enough) and prefer to split the room into two sections with a control line the length of the installation layout.  I pencil mark reference points between tiles in the rows using my TAVY Spacers to lay a single  “dry row “ in two directions. Larger than 1/2 tile balanced cuts against opposing walls is okay on some installations and may not work as well for others. A “feature” or “prominent wall” can look better with a full tile if the cuts on other walls are hidden by furniture, etc.  I also tile against a straight edge making full mortar contact at the straight edge. “Beat in” all my tiles as well. Multitudes of grid lines result in tiles that fail to have full mortar contact at their edges because grid lines must be visible to be effective and mortar spread on control lines would obscure them. Air is the enemy unless you are breathing it or it is in your life jacket, it does not belong under tile or tile edges. Starting in the furthest corner of the room and working your way out is best. A control line parallel to a straight wall is important. If you don’t have a 90 degree inside corner at the furthest end of the wall that the control line is parallel too, make a 90 degree pencil sketch on the floor and cut the tiles in. Of course, I use my "TAVY" Tile Spacers for perfection and my Tile Puck to eliminate or at least minimize tile lippage. When in doubt that you may not get a proper bond to a substrate, "TAVY" Thin-Skin Tile Underlayment is a sensible option. Armen Tavy

Most tile manufacturers that make a 4 1/4" wall tile make towel bar posts to match. The same size or a little larger can be installed. The present cut tile on the side of the towel bar posts can be carefully removed and made smaller if/as necessary. Check "American Olean" or "Daltile" on line or in your yellow pages. Buy both posts  and the bar that fits the new posts. You will not likely find an exact match. Armen Tavy  

"R.A.K" Ceramics (www.rakceram.com), as good as their reputation seems to be, shouldn't give you more assurances than any other manufacturer that has a #5 Commercial Wear Rating on their floor tiles. Double press, double glaze won't necessarily give you wear protection, but claims like scratch resistant should. Porcelain and rectified tiles rated at #5 Commercial Grade should last a lifetime in residential applications. Pick a name brand that has been around for years with a reputation for customer service and ask for a "written" guarantee of #5 Wear, which should include high "traffic patterns". Remember, a warranty is only as good as the companies reputation and solvency. "Crossville Ceramics", www.crossvilleinc.com, in Tennessee, USA has a "no nonsense lifetime warranty" on their Porcelain Stone Tiles. If you have read any of the other "posts" on this forum you will see the precautions you must take in hiring a qualified installer who uses quality installation materials and techniques. Guiding you on internet sources is difficult since freight destination charges can vary from country to country which may influence your final decision on the   tile source. There are many good sources in "Turkey". "RAK" is an "Arabic Emirate" company with an impressive web site, I know nothing of the company itself. www.tileinfo.com is a source for many manufacturers worldwide, however the list there includes distributors as well, and their is no way to tell the difference unless you individually research their respective web sites. Armen Tavy

This question put forth to a mortar company will always get the same response: We don't make a "one sided mortar". If a mortar sticks to a tile and not to the substrate, there has to be a "bond breaker" on the substrate. Dust is one of them, especially if the mortar was not "keyed in properly" to the substrate with the backside of the trowel before "combing". I "always" made it a practice to "key in" the mortar over the entire installation and letting it dry to the touch, or overnight in some cases, before installing tile, and then I would "key it in" again just before "spreading/combing" the installation mortar. However, there have been unexplained instances when a tile had to be removed, for one reason or another following my precautionary step, " and tile with mortar attached would come up clean "as a whistle" and then this would be enough to "scare" any tile installer" about the longevity of the installation. Some installers, who are "paranoid", will spend the extra money to buy and use only mortars that have their own "Liquid" Latex Additives. Failures with this type of mortar are unheard of. Backerboard manufacturers will turn a "cold shoulder" to this type of complaint and it would require the services of a "forensic specialist", with Industry accepted knowledge, to back up any complaint worthy of a refund. 900 sq ft is a serious failure and you will have to "dot all your "i"s and cross all your "t"s to get them to even listen. You didn't say how long it took before the first customer complaint about loose tile/s. There have been documented failures over a backerboard after 8 years and that is also an "eye opener". You only have to get "burned once" to change "practices". Don't feel alone, because in two weeks I am meeting with an installer (with 35 years experience) at his job site in Porter Ranch California, who has a 2,000 sq ft, $30,000 job failure over a concrete slab. I just happen to be traveling within a reasonable distance of his "failure" and I offered my assistance to see if I can come to a/any reasonable conclusion absolving him of the liability of the replacement costs. His mortar didn't stick to the slab or the Porcelain Tiles. These cases can't be isolated, and I also welcome any feedback/s from installers or consumers that have had similar experiences, as well as their outcomes. Armen Tavy 

Thank You; My Wife thanks you, as do my 3 children, 8 grandchildren and 3 great grandchildren. To insure full grout penetration, use my 1/32" Tavy Marble Spacers or which ever size spacers you might prefer. Gauge the grout joint space between the strips and the tiles so they will be uniform. Install each "feature strip" after you install the next full granite tile leveling the two tiles and the strip/s on a flat and level plane using a 24" "Bubble Level". "Key" mortar onto the back of each strip just before inserting. Install my Marble or Tile Spacers to align the strips. Check your alignment carefully because "tomorrow is to late". You can experiment with a "trick" I use and that is to install the strips with "mayo" consistency grout. Since grout does not "stick" you must "finger coat" the back of each strip with "white Thin-Set and use the "mayo" consistency grout (glob it on narrow in a wedge shape) instead of mortar to install the "strips" pressing them into place and wiping off the excess grout that oozes out. Excess mortar in the "joint" should have been removed to allow space for the grout and the remaining thin layer of mortar at the bottom of the grout joint must still be "wet". The strip is installed, aligned, grouted to perfection, and washed all at the same time. (Polish grout "haze" before it is out of reach) Confused, or need more help/explanation, write again. Armen Tavy

There are two reasons why it would not be advisable. The sand particles in Thin-Set Mortars are generally to large to allow full penetration down into the grout joint. Thin-Set Mortars are designed to "stick" rather than "fill" and waiting for a "haze" to form as required, during the "curing" stage, even though it is of short duration, would make it near impossible to remove "mortar haze", so the answer is, NO! Armen Tavy, married 57 years TODAY

This phenomenon is a "pain" that makes one say, "Why me?" The reasons for it are many, some simple others complicated and hard to pinpoint. A simple one, and least observed is, using tap water from home "soft water systems" that use salt crystals. Use this water to mix thin-set and grout and you are looking for trouble. Preventive measures? Always look for a water source outside the home before it is processed by a softening system. You say you have used Sulfamic Acid however, there is a correct procedure verses haphazard washing. Follow the advice by Custom Building Products and see if your "luck" turns around, Armen Tavy: Grout must cure a minimum of 7 days before acid cleaning. 

A mixture of 1/2 lb. (.23 kg) of Sulfamic acid crystals to 

one (1) gallon (3.78 L) of very hot clean water is recom- 

mended. Always test in a small inconspicuous area and allow 

to dry completely prior to treating the entire installation. 

SATURATE the area to be cleaned with clean water and let 

soak for 1 hour. Now wipe up all excess water and apply the 

acid solution. Pour enough acid solution on the grout to 

puddle in the joint and scrub it with a stiff nylon bristle brush. 

After scrubbing let acid set on grout for approximately 5 

minutes then scrub again. Then wipe up all acid solution with 

clean rinse water. 

As a final rinse it is necessary to neutralize the acid. This can 

be done by mopping or sponging with TileLab®Marble & 

Stone Cleaner Concentrate. Let dry a minimum of 12 hours 

before applying any sealers or colorants. 

Always observe product precautions and wear appropriate 

safety equipment. Acid cleaners must not be used on soft 

natural stone such as Marble, Limestone or Travertine 

installations. Non-acidic cleaners must be used for these acid 

sensitive materials. Contact Technical Services for 

recommendations. 

Never seal grout that is not satisfactory in color, hardness or 

appearance. Normal sealers are not designed to correct a 

"problem" grout job. Application of sealers over a "problem" 

grout will only tend to enhance the grout problem and prevent 

usage of simple corrective measures. 

ADDITIONAL EFFLORESCENCE INFORMATION 

IS AVAILABLE FROM THE FOLLOWING 

ASSOCIATIONS: 

TCA Manual, Document A-7 

MMSA Bulletin No. 6 and No. 9 

Portland Cement Association: Efflorescence 

If you require further assistance or additional information 

please contact Technical Services. 

This bulletin addresses concerns and questions about 

efflorescence and mineral film discoloration on Portland 

cement grout. 

Efflorescence is a mineral deposit that sometimes leaches or 

migrates to the surface of the grout. These minerals occur 

naturally as part of the Portland cement which is mined and 

processed from the ground. Additional minerals can also come 

from the water source used with the grout or placed on top of 

the grout for maintenance. Although unsightly, the mineral 

deposit can be removed with a proper washing with a mild 

acid solution. 

Efflorescence can form shortly after grouting, resulting in a 

brand-new installation that may look splotched or completely 

covered with a white crust or film, to the dismay of the owner 

and those associated with the installation. 

Many kinds of salts have been detected in samples of 

efflorescence. These include sodium sulfate, potassium sulfate, 

sodium carbonate, calcium sulfate, sodium bicarbonate and 

calcium carbonate. 

These salts are found in cement and may also be found in 

the water mixed with the grout. Custom®Building Products 

incorporates chemicals within the grout to minimize the 

effects of efflorescence, but efflorescence cannot be totally 

eliminated. Grout mix consistency, evaporation conditions, and 

actions/events beyond grout manufacturer control influence 

the occurrence of efflorescence. 

Because jobsite conditions change from one application to 

another, it is important to adjust grouting techniques. 

Dense bodied tile (porcelain), polymer-modified setting mortar, 

and dense substrates prolong the time grout takes to become 

firm before clean-up. Water mixed with the grout has nowhere 

to go but upward, and will carry minerals to the grout surface. 

A wet grout mix and/or clean-up before grout is properly firm 

will create the conditions for efflorescence to occur, especially 

in cooler conditions [50°- 70°F (10°- 21°C)] or when 

temperature swings occur during the grout’s initial stages 

of curing. 

Efflorescence removal as well as minor grout haze may be 

achieved with TileLab®Sulfamic Acid Cleaner. Sulfamic acid is 

a mild, odorless acid that is intended for use with non-acid 

sensitive veneers such as ceramic or porcelain tile. 

REMOVING  

EFFLORESCENCE 

TECHNICAL BULLETIN 

Seal Beach, CA 90740            Technical Services (800) 272-8786             www.custombuildingproducts.com            Manufacturing facilities nationwide. 

The information in this bulletin is presented in good faith, but no warranty, express or 

implied, is given nor is freedom from any patent in as much as any assistance 

furnished by Custom with reference to the safe use and disposal of its products 

provided without charge. Custom Building Products assumes no obligation or liability 

therefore, except to the extent that any such assistance shall be given in good faith.

In the 48 + years I have been in this trade, I have never come across a 14" tile. I hope someone else has and can help you. However, you  might consider using a lighter neutral color, for the field tiles with green accent tiles ("American Olean" or "Daltile") or 2", 3" 4", etc. "dots", as close to the color green on your existing floor, that most likely will be impossible to find anyway. If you are concerned about matching grout joints, tile the closet on a diagonal and install a threshold between the two floors. The threshold can be 2" wide marble in "Carrara White" or in a green color (from a marble shop) or a series of green accent tiles you choose for the closet floor can be cut to fit across the threshold or use marble. The accent tiles for the main floor could also be marble "dots". A 4 1/4" or 6" white octagon tile (from the two mentioned suppliers) with a green glazed dot would be another option. Being creative and different is OKAY and could get a "WOW" from your friends. Armen Tavy

We had such a case earlier on this forum or it may have been on: www.thetiledoctor/forum.com, and the homebuilder stated that they were still in the business and felt it was their "moral" responsibility to replace the installation. Unless written otherwise, 1 year warranties are the norm. However, poor workmanship by a sub-contractor of theirs might be a deciding factor to keep their "Good Name" in the community; because, as we brag in this trade, "A tile job should last a lifetime". The failure can be one or both of the reasons you have mentioned. One of the strongest recommendations by mortar manufacturers is a "soft" grout joint around the perimeter of an installation, or expansion spaces concealed by baseboards, as well as planned expansion joints in the "field" every 15 +/- lineal feet in larger installations. This is a legitimate “escape clause for them”.  A change in ambient temperature (higher) combined with a rise in humidity can expand tiles and cause "tenting". If expansion is not planned into the "equation", a hot weather breakdown in air conditioning for several days, can also cause this phenomenon. You can't be "blammed" even if you turned the "air off" and went on vacation for a week or more. Armen Tavy

Place a call to Bedrosian's Fresno office and ask for "Ara Movsesian" and no one else. If he can't help you, no one can. I know Ara, and he won't leave you hanging. You can tell him I said that. He can find out if this tile is really out of production or that Bedrosian's may have just stopped carrying this line. If it's the latter, he should be able to get you in touch with the original supplier. He is one of the "Few Good Men" you can depend on. Can't find him, write again, or send me an e-mail: spacerman@tavytools.com

Well let's see. We, in this trade, are known to use "tons" of Galvanized Wire Lath, Galvanized Screws, Galvanized Nails and Mega Tons of Hydrated Lime in Portland Cement and Sand Mixes. Now if this was a problem, our Tile Industry would be bankrupt by now from endless “Law Suits", so I agree with the others that he may have bought "cheap" and is just looking for a "scapegoat". Find out if he has built other homes in the area and check them out to see if any have the same problem. If there aren't any other homes to compare this one with, I would "stick to your guns" and tell him you used products that are Industry Approved and he should have foreseen possible issues with upgrades and planned ahead with quality "Galvanized" Products that are supposed to last many years as expected, if not forever. There are solutions with chemicals that can dissolve the rust and make the "Tin" paintable to match the rest of the homes trim. Removing a drip edge is a major project and he is unrealistic in expecting you to compensate him for his own short comings. End of conversation, unless you are desperate for a future business relationship with this individual. Armen Tavy "TIRTGIM" (Tile It Right To Give It Might)

You have not told me what the dimensions are of the "field" tiles. There are "tricks" in every trade and it helps me if I have all the facts. For instance, how many lineal feet of stone tiles and I am assuming the strips are about 2+ inches wide are planned in the layout. If the field tiles are at least 12" x 12", they could be installed with a 1/2" x 1/2" Notched Trowel, and using a small width putty knife ,scrape out as much of the mortar as necessary to install the stone tiles flush with the rest of the installation. To be certain you get sufficient bond apply a very thin coat of mortar with a putty knife onto the backs of the stone strips before installing them. Use a white modified thin-set for easier clean-up. "Piece of cake", Good Luck. Need more help, just ask. Armen Tavy

I haven't got a clue so I am going to turn this one over to an expert in the field, who is also a good friend of mine. He is a technical rep for "Homax/Tile Guard" located in Bellingham WA.(Pacific Time) His name is Dave Glen, at: 360-733-9029 ext 1062. You can tell him I sent you, Armen Tavy

"You may proceed to the head of the class". However, try to purchase a 1/8" V-Notch Trowel to spread my 007 Glue so you can get 100 sq ft of coverage. Some Home Depot Stores stock them, model 10112, by QEP (a throw away) or Professional model E-5.  Hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle to the floor and don't leave puddles of glue removing all excess with several passes with an "unloaded" trowel. Nice neat lines of glue in one left to right direction. Neatness always pays you back. Once you get the hang of it, it is quick and simple. Check out my video on: www.tavytools.com and click on "Ron Hazelton House Calls" in the left margin. Two episodes 6 minutes each.  Armen Tavy

As far as I can recall, a company called "Mid-State Tile" was the only company that made this larger size tile. Your only option is to purchase some 4 1/4" tiles and have a little wider grout joint around them. It's better than cracked tiles. Gold mist, as it was called by many manufacturers, should still be available through American Olean or Daltile. Go to their sites for supply locations. You could also purchase some 6" tiles and cut them to size on a wet saw, "rub stoning" the edges to smooth/soften them. Armen Tavy

A "wallpaper" scraper with a 4" blade or a single edge razor blade in a holder. Soak the grout and keep it wet while you work. Sorry, no other way. Armen Tavy

The pink tiles are called appropriately "dots" and are used in the planned format of octagon tiles. American Olean or Dal Tile is the best source. Removing the dots is a tedious job with no shortcuts other than a hammer and small chisel. Wear eye protection and hammer away. There is one unfortunate side effect removing these dots and that is the possibility of chipping the "field tiles" they are adjacent to. If this is an "AMERICAN OLEAN" or "Daltile" installation the "dots" are in pretty snug. It might be prudent to get a carbide masonry drill bit to drill at least a 3/8", or larger hole, or series of holes, in or around the center of the "dots", to relieve outward pressure when you chop away. Good Luck and try to remove the first one in an inconspicuous spot. ARMEN TAVY

This phenomenon is difficult to entirely remove. The "Salts" are coming from below the tile. From the slab or even from the mortar if it was unconventional. Washing it off the grout is usually only a temporary solution at best  until all the "salts" dissipate, however you can go to: http://www.seichemical.com/products/AR-105.html and check out their product line. You may get lucky. Armen Tavy

It may take several attempts to remove the haze. Tile Guard's "Heavy Duty Acidic Cleaner" should work if not, and you  haven't purchased and used concentrated "sulfamic acid" in your local tile store, do so, and buy a set of scrub pads that attach to a plastic block (they are in colors white to the coarsest color black, and scrub vigorously after the chemical  soaks in for a while. Read the label because in "concentrated"/full strength, it can be very aggressive, should not be applied directly to "dry tiles" and some diluting may be prudent. Armen Tavy 

There is no possible way, None!!! And if they did try, it would be "Doomed", and it wouldn't take long. Now, you could use it and then cover everything with products like "Red Guard" or Schluter "Kerdi", but then that would be "Redundant", besides you would have to invent a new shower sub-drain assembly. Creative thinking is good, but don't torture yourself when there are so many proven alternatives that work. Armen Tavy

A "commode" room is generally 12 to 15 square feet, not so big that it would be that difficult to remove and replace. You can however tile over tile with TAVY "Thin-Skin” and install a 2" wide marble threshold directly under the door separating the two floors. Finding a tile that compliments the "commode" room's tiles should be easy. Try being creative, as you have already suggested. One way would be to make a "Medallion" in the center of the main bath floor out of the 4 tiles remaining, to make a pattern. If you have only 3 tiles left, cut 2 of them diagonally, which would give you 4 triangular pieces which you can install around a full center tile; all the "factory edges" would touch one another. Sketch out a few designs on a piece of paper to get an idea of how they would look. Include a border made out of a "Stone" Listelo Tiles in one of the sketches. You have many options to consider and the final look may be better than just a plain floor. Armen Tavy

Call "Laticrete" at: 910-582-2252 ext 103 for Robert Goff in Tech. Support and tell him I sent you. If he isn't there, try Frank, Dean or John to help resolve your issues. Armen Tavy

The Schluter shower System is not the easiest for a "Novice" to install. There are many "i"s and "t"s to cross. I don't understand why you just didn't use a/any "cementitious" backerboard if you weren't convinced that "Dens Shield" itself was a suitable shower wall substrate, which is what "USG" says it is. If every single tile in every single box is "cupped", it would indicate that it was the "intent" of the manufacturer. It sounds like you have already started laying tile and I would suggest that you use a "White" Thin-Set to minimize grout staining from grey mortars. Be neat and wash all evidence of excess mortar off the sides of the tiles. A phone call on Monday to Dal would still make sense. Armen Tavy

These might look good as a kitchen baksplash tile or a decorative wall that is not a shower area. If you design a water resistant or waterproof wall to cascade water around or over a water fountain, the ripple effect of the water over the "cupped" tiles can add to the ambience. Armen Tavy